Amigurumi Cupid | Free Valentine's Crochet Pattern
Free Crochet Patterns

Cupid Crochet Doll – Free Amigurumi Pattern

I brought little Cupid to life with my hook and needle, so he can fly about and strike your heart with his arrow, just in time for Valentine’s Day.

Cupid Amigurumi Doll | Free Valentine's Day Crochet Pattern | stellasyarnuniverse.com

He is approx. 11cm/4.5″ tall (or short), yet he spreads a whole lot of love!

I wrote this pattern in British as well as U.S. American terms. You can find the British terms below. Please scroll down for the U.S. terms.

Free Crochet Pattern in British terms

You will need to know how to chain, double crochet (single crochet), how to make invisible decreases, and how to make a magic ring. If you haven’t done any or all of these techniques, you can learn them here:

Learn how to chain and single/double crochet

How to make a magic ring

How to make invisible decreases

Materials

10g (0.35oz) Rico Creative Ricorumi DK (light worsted) cotton yarn in preferred colour for the skin (C1) (I used colour 054 Ecru)

5g (0.18oz) Rico Creative Ricorumi DK (light worsted) cotton yarn in preferred colour for the hair (C2) (I used colour 053 Caramel)

5g (0.18oz) Rico Creative Ricorumi DK (light worsted) cotton yarn in white for the nappy and wings (C3)

Small amount of Sirdar Snuggly Snowflake Chunky (Aran/worsted fluffy yarn) in white for the wings (C4)

2.5mm crochet hook  (I love my Clover hook with its ergonomic handle)

4mm (0.16″) safety eyes

Toy stuffing

Small amount of 0.8mm craft wire

Small amount of 0.2mm craft wire

Small red pom pom

Yarn needle

Sewing thread in cream

Sewing needle

Contact glue

Scissors

Abbreviations

C1 = yarn for skin

C2 = yarn for hair

C3 = white yarn for nappy

C4 = snuggly yarn for wings

St(s) = stitch(es)

Ch = chain

Dc = double crochet

2dc = double crochet 2 in same st

Inv dec = invisible decrease: Insert hook in front loops of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through 2 remaining loops

Sk = skip

Tension

25 sts x 26 rows of double crochet = 4″ x 4″ (10.16cm x 10.16cm)

Instructions

Head (in C1)

Rd 1: Dc 6 in a magic ring (6)

Rd 2: 2dc 6 (12)

Rd 3: [dc 1, 2dc 1]*6 (18)

Rd 4: [dc 2, 2dc 1]*6 (24)

Rd 5: [dc 3, 2dc 1]*6 (30)

Rd 6 to 9: Dc 30

Rd 10: [dc 3, inv dec 1]*6 (24)

Rd 11: [dc 2, inv dec 1]*6 (18)

Rd 12: [dc 1, inv dec 1]*6 (12)

Attach the eyes

Secure your stitch with a stitch marker. The stitch marker marks the back of the head. Decide where to place the eyes (somewhere on the opposite of the stitch marker). I left 4 sts between the eyes. Once you’re happy with the placement of the safety eyes, go ahead and secure them.

Crochet and attach the hair strands

Make 12 strands of hair in C2:

Ch 6, dc 5 (starting from 2nd from hook)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Ch 8, dc 7 (starting from 2nd from hook)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Ch 10, dc 9 (starting from 2nd from hook) (make 2)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Ch 12, dc 11 (starting from 2nd from hook) (make 4)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Ch 14, dc 13 (starting from 2nd from hook)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Ch 16, dc 15 (starting from 2nd from hook) (make 2)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Ch 18, dc 17 (starting from 2nd from hook)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Arrange the hair strands on the head. You can pin them in place, if necessary, and sew them on one by one using the two ends. Tie the ends together on the inside of the head and cut them short.

Now fill the head with plenty of stuffing.

Continue with the neck:

Rd 13: [dc 1, inv dec 1]*4 (8)

Rd 14: Dc 8 (8)

Rd 15: 2dc 8 (16)

Rd 15: Dc 16 (16)

Rd 16: 2dc 1, dc 2, ch 2, sk 2, dc 2, 2dc 2, dc 2, ch 2, sk 2, dc 2, 2dc 1 (20)

Rd 17: Dc 4, dc 2 in back loops of chs, dc 8, dc 2 in back loops of chs, dc 4 (20)

Rd 18 to 20: Dc 20 (20)

R 1: Dc 4

R 2: Ch 1, turn, dc 4 (4)

R 3: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, dc 1, sk 1, dc 1 (2)

R 4: Ch 1, turn, dc 2 (2)

R 5: Ch 1, turn, dc 2 (2)

R 6: Ch 1, turn, 2dc 2 (4)

Fill body with stuffing .

R 7: Sew each st of the row tog with 4 middle sts of back (leaving 6 sts on each side for the legs)

Right arm

Join C1 in the front of the right arm hole. Insert your hook from the inside of the arm hole towards the outside, in the lower st of the front of the arm hole.

Dc 2 up towards the shoulder. These 2 dcs will serve as the shoulder joint and will allow the upper arm to point backwards.

Rd 1: Dc 6 in a rd into the arm hole.

Rd 2 to 4: Dc 6 (6)

Elbow

R 1: Dc 1

R 2: Ch 1, turn, dc 2

Continue with forearm

Rd 5: Ch 1, turn, dc 2, inv dec 1 (in side of ch and front loop of next st), dc 3 (6)

Rd 6 to 8: Dc 6 (6)

Rd 9: [2dc 2, dc 1]*2 (10)

Rd 10: Dc 10 (10)

Rd 11: Inv dec 5 (5)

Break yarn, pull through, sew in. You can shape the position of the arm by sewing in the end. I stitched the upper and forearm closer together near the elbow.

Left arm

Join C1 in the back of the left arm hole. Insert your hook from the inside of the arm hole towards the outside, in the lower st of the back of the arm hole.

Dc 2 up towards the shoulder. These 2 dcs will serve as the shoulder and allow the arm to point forward.

Rd 1: Ch 1, turn, dc 6 in the arm hole, in a rd (6)

Rd 2 to 7: Dc 6 (6)

Rd 8: [2dc 2, dc 1]*2 (10)

Rd 9: Dc 10 (10)

Rd 10: Inv dec 5 (5)

Break yarn, pull through, sew in. You can shape the position of the arm by sewing in the end. I stitched the inside of the upper arm closer together with the chest, near the armpit.

Right leg

Join C1 at the front inside of right leg.

Rd 1 to 5: Dc 10 (10) Fill with stuffing as you go.

Rd 6: Dc 3, inv dec 1, dc 5 (9)

Rd 7: Dc 7, inv dec 1 (8)

Rd 8 and 9: Dc 8 (8)

Rd 10: Dc 6, inv dec 1 (7)

Rd 11: Dc 3, inv dec 1, dc 2 (6)

Form the heel

R 1: Ch 1, turn, dc 2

Rd 1: Ch 1, turn, dc 8 (8)

Rd 2 to 4: Dc 8 (8)

Break yarn, pull through, sew both layers together, forming toes.

Left leg

Join C1 at the back inside to start the left leg.

Rd 1 to 5: Dc 10 (10) Fill with stuffing as you go

Rd 6: Dc 8, inv dec 1 (9)

Rd 7: Dc 3, inv dec 1, dc 4 (8)

Rd 8 and 9: Dc 8 (8)

Rd 10: Inv dec 1, dc 6 (7)

Rd 11: Dc 3, inv dec 1, dc 2 (6)

Form the heel

R 1: Dc 2 (in direction of rd)

R 2: Ch 1, dc 2

Rd 1: Ch 1, turn, dc 8 (8)

Rd 2 to 4: Dc 8 (8)

Break yarn, pull through, sew both layers together, forming toes.

Nappy

Ch 22, close to a rd.

Rd 1 to 3: Dc 22

R 1: Dc 4

R 2: Ch 1, turn, dc 4 (4)

R 3: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, dc 1, sk 1, dc 1 (2)

R 4: Ch 1, turn, dc 2 (2)

R 5: Ch 1, turn, dc 2 (2)

R 6: Ch 1, turn, 2dc 2 (4)

R 7: Ch 1, turn, 2dc 1, dc 2, 2dc 1 (6)

R 8: Ch 1, turn, dc 6 (6)

Stitch the nappy together with 2 sts on each side using C2.

Wings (make 2)

Work with C3 and C4 together.

Ch 6

R 1: 2dc in 2nd from hook, dc 4

R 2: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, dc 4

R 3: Ch 1, turn, dc 4

R 4: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, dc 3

R 5: Ch 1, turn, dc 3

R 6: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, dc 2

R 7: Ch 1, turn, dc 1

You are now at the tip of the wing, dc 3 across half of the bottom of the wing to create the lower feathers of the wing’s tip.

Break yarn, pull though, sew in end.

Sew in the snuggly part of the other ends and use the cotton part to attach the wings to the middle of the back with 3 sts each. Now you can slightly bend the wings into shape.

Cupid’s bow and arrow

Bow

Cut a 8cm/3″ piece of thick craft wire (the one I used is 0.8mm thick). If you have rounded pliers, you can shape a loop on one end of the wire. If you don’t have pliers, you can shape the wire by wrapping it around a bamboo skewer, or similar.

Using C2 ch 17

Dc 16 (starting from 2nd from hook) around the wire, so it is hidden inside the row of dcs.

Break yarn, pull through, sew in ends.

Shape another loop on the other end of the wire, right behind the row of dcs. Bend the wire into the shape of a bow.

Cut a 8cm/3″ piece of thin craft wire for the bow string. Double-check the distance between Cupid’s hands to measure the appropriate length of the bowstring. Attach the bowstring’s ends to each of the bow’s ends, by wrapping the wire around a couple of times.

Now sew the bow onto the palm of Cupid’s left hand and the bowstring onto his right hand palm.

Once dried, sew the arrow onto the bow and Cupid’s right hand with a sewing needle and thread.

Arrow

Cut an approx. 6cm/2.5″ piece of thick craft wire. Get it as straight as possible. Tie 3 short pieces of C3 yarn around one end of the wire (for the arrow’s feather fins).

Cut the small red pom pom into a heart shape with a small pair of scissors. Put a drop of contact glue onto the tip of the wire and glue the little heart onto it as the arrow’s tip.

If you like your little Cupid to fly around, you can attach a loop of sewing thread to the back of his head.

Cupid | Free Crochet Pattern for Valentine's Day | stellasyarnuniverse.com

Free Crochet Pattern in U.S. terms

Abbreviations

C1 = yarn for skin

C2 = yarn for hair

C3 = white yarn for nappy

C4 = fluffy white yarn for wings

St(s) = stitch(es)

Ch = chain

Sc = single crochet

2sc = single crochet 2 in same st

Inv dec = invisible decrease: Insert hook in front loops of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through 2 remaining loops

Sk = skip

Gauge

25 sts x 26 rows of single crochet = 4″ x 4″

Instructions

Head (in C1)

Rd 1: Sc 6 in a magic ring (6)

Rd 2: 2sc 6 (12)

Rd 3: [sc 1, 2sc 1]*6 (18)

Rd 4: [sc 2, 2sc 1]*6 (24)

Rd 5: [sc 3, 2sc 1]*6 (30)

Rd 6 to 9: Sc 30

Rd 10: [sc 3, inv dec 1]*6 (24)

Rd 11: [sc 2, inv dec 1]*6 (18)

Rd 12: [sc 1, inv dec 1]*6 (12)

Crochet and attach the hair strands

Make 12 strands of hair in C2:

Ch 6, sc 5 (starting from 2nd from hook)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Ch 8, sc 7 (starting from 2nd from hook)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Ch 10, sc 9 (starting from 2nd from hook) (make 2)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Ch 12, sc 11 (starting from 2nd from hook) (make 4)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Ch 14, sc 13 (starting from 2nd from hook)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Ch 16, sc 15 (starting from 2nd from hook) (make 2)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Ch 18, sc 17 (starting from 2nd from hook)

Break yarn, pull through, leave ends to sew onto the head.

Arrange the hair strands on the head. You can pin them in place, if necessary, and sew them on one by one using the two ends. Tie the ends together on the inside of the head and cut them short.

Continue with the neck

Rd 13: [sc 1, inv dec 1]*4 (8)

Rd 14: Sc 8 (8)

Rd 15: 2sc 8 (16)

Rd 15: Sc 16 (16)

Rd 16: 2sc 1, sc 2, ch 2, sk 2, sc 2, 2sc 2, sc 2, ch 2, sk 2, sc 2, 2sc 1 (20)

Rd 17: Sc 4, sc 2 in back loops of chs, sc 8, sc 2 in back loops of chs, sc 4 (20)

Rd 18 to 20: Sc 20 (20)

R 1: Sc 4

R 2: Ch 1, turn, sc 4 (4)

R 3: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 1 (2)

R 4: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 (2)

R 5: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 (2)

R 6: Ch 1, turn, 2sc 2 (4)

Fill body with stuffing .

R 7: Sew each st of the row tog with 4 middle sts of back (leaving 6 sts on each side for the legs)

Right arm

Join C1 in the front of the right arm hole. Insert your hook from the inside of the arm hole towards the outside, in the lower st of the front of the arm hole.

Sc 2 up towards the shoulder. These 2 sc will serve as the shoulder joint and will allow the upper arm to point backwards.

Rd 1: Sc 6 in a rd into the arm hole.

Rd 2 to 4: Sc 6 (6)

Elbow

R 1: Sc 1

R 2: Ch 1, turn, sc 2

Continue with forearm

Rd 5: Ch 1, turn, sc 2, inv dec 1 (in side of ch and front loop of next st), sc 3 (6)

Rd 6 to 8: Sc 6 (6)

Rd 9: [2sc 2, sc 1]*2 (10)

Rd 10: Sc 10 (10)

Rd 11: Inv dec 5 (5)

Break yarn, pull through, sew in. You can shape the position of the arm by sewing in the end. I stitched the upper and forearm closer together near the elbow.

Left arm

Join C1 in the back of the left arm hole. Insert your hook from the inside of the arm hole towards the outside, in the lower st of the back of the arm hole.

Sc 2 up towards the shoulder. These 2 sc will serve as the shoulder and allow the arm to point forward.

Rd 1: Ch 1, turn, sc 6 in the arm hole, a rd (6)

Rd 2 to 7: Sc 6 (6)

Rd 8: [2sc 2, sc 1]*2 (10)

Rd 9: Sc 10 (10)

Rd 10: Inv dec 5 (5)

Break yarn, pull through, sew in. You can shape the position of the arm by sewing in the end. I stitched the inside of the upper arm closer together with the chest, near the armpit.

Right leg

Join C1 at the front inside of right leg.

Rd 1 to 5: Sc 10 (10) Fill with stuffing as you go

Rd 6: Sc 3, inv dec 1, sc 5 (9)

Rd 7: Sc 7, inv dec 1 (8)

Rd 8 and 9: Sc 8 (8)

Rd 10: Sc 6, inv dec 1 (7)

Rd 11: Sc 3, inv dec 1, sc 2 (6)

Form the heel

R 1: Ch 1, turn, sc 2

Rd 1: Ch 1, turn, sc 8 (8)

Rd 2 to 4: Sc 8 (8)

Break yarn, pull through, sew both layers together, forming toes.

Left leg

Join C1 at the back inside to start the left leg.

Rd 1 to 5: Sc 10 (10) Fill with stuffing as you go

Rd 6: Sc 8, inv dec 1 (9)

Rd 7: Sc 3, inv dec 1, sc 4 (8)

Rd 8 and 9: Sc 8 (8)

Rd 10: Inv dec 1, sc 6 (7)

Rd 11: Sc 3, inv dec 1, sc 2 (6)

Form the heel

R 1: Sc 2 (in direction of rd)

R 2: Ch 1, Sc 2

Rd 1: Ch 1, turn, sc 8 (8)

Rd 2 to 4: Sc 8 (8)

Break yarn, pull through, sew both layers together, forming toes.

Diaper

Ch 22, close to a rd.

Rd 1 to 3: Sc 22

R 1: Sc 4

R 2: Ch 1, turn, sc 4 (4)

R 3: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 1 (2)

R 4: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 (2)

R 5: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 (2)

R 6: Ch 1, turn, 2sc 2 (4)

R 7: Ch 1, turn, 2sc 1, sc 2, 2sc 1 (6)

R 8: Ch 1, turn, sc 6 (6)

Stitch the nappy together with 2 sts on each side using C2.

Wings (make 2)

Work with C3 and C4 together.

Ch 6

R 1: 2sc in 2nd from hook, sc 4

R 2: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, sc 4

R 3: Ch 1, turn, sc 4

R 4: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, sc 3

R 5: Ch 1, turn, sc 3

R 6: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, sc 2

R 7: Ch 1, turn, sc 1 You are now at the tip of the wing, sc 3 across half of the bottom of the wing to create the lower feathers of the wing’s tip.

Sew in the snuggly part of the other ends and use the cotton part to attach the wings to the middle of the back with 3 sts each. Now you can slightly bend the wings into shape.

Break yarn, pull though, sew in end.

Cupid’s bow and arrow

Bow

Cut a 3″ piece of thick craft wire (the one I used is 0.8mm thick). If you have rounded pliers, you can shape a loop on one end of the wire. If you don’t have pliers, you can shape the wire by wrapping it around a bamboo skewer, or similar.

Using C2 ch 17

Sc 16 (starting from 2nd from hook) around the wire, so it is hidden inside the row of scs.

Break yarn, pull through, sew in ends.

Shape another loop on the other end of the wire, right behind the row of dcs. Bend the wire into the shape of a bow.

Cut a 3″ piece of thin craft wire for the bow string. Double-check the distance between Cupid’s hands to measure the appropriate length of the bowstring. Attach the bowstring’s ends to each of the bow’s ends, by wrapping the wire around a couple of times.

Now sew the bow onto the palm of Cupid’s left hand and the bowstring onto his right hand palm.

Once dried, sew the arrow onto the bow and Cupid’s right hand with a sewing needle and thread.

Arrow

Cut an approx. 2.5″ piece of thick craft wire. Get it as straight as possible. Tie 3 short pieces of C3 yarn around one end of the wire (for the arrow’s feather fins).

Cut the small red pom pom into a heart shape with a small pair of scissors. Put a drop of contact glue onto the tip of the wire and glue the little heart onto it as the arrow’s tip.

If you like your little Cupid to fly around, you can attach a loop of sewing thread to the back of his head.

Cupid Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern | stellasyarnuniverse.com

I hope you enjoyed crocheting little Cupid! If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to comment below. I will get back to you as soon as I can.

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Happy creating!

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