Dragonfly Amigurumi Pattern

This dragonfly amigurumi pattern is a great project for confident beginners, intermediate and seasoned crocheters! It is inspired by the male Common Blue Damselfly that we have here in the UK. If you’re not quite ready for colour changes yet, you can make it in one colour only.

If using the recommended yarn and hook size, your damselfly crochet toy will measure about 13 x 13cm / 5 x 5″ wide and long.

You can find the free written pattern in US terms below. Hope you’ll enjoy it!

There is an ad-free interactive version of this dragonfly amigurumi pattern available to purchase on Ribblr for a small fee. (best price and eco-friendly)

And there is also an ad-free downloadable pdf version of the dragonfly amigurumi available to purchase on Etsy for a small fee. (great if you want to work on it offline)

I would love to see your dragonfly amigurumi! Share your creation on Instagram and tag me @stellasyarnuniverse for the monthly chance to win a pdf pattern of your choice from my Etsy shop! Winners are announced on my Instagram page @stellasyarnuniverse every other 1st of the month!

It will also be helpful to know:

How to fasten off closed projects

How to make neat color changes

Materials and tools you need for the dragonfly amigurumi

Cotton yarn in 4-Ply/Fingering or DK/light worsted weight in blue, black and white or light blue (or 2 to 3 different colors of choice) [I used Scheepjes Catona in Vivid Blue, Jet Black and Chrystaline]

2.5mm / C-2 or B-1 crochet hook depending on how tightly you crochet

Black embroidery floss

Stitch marker

Yarn needle

Large eyed sewing needle

Scissors

Craft wire (optional)

Glue (optional)

Small flat pliers (optional)

Abbreviations

Rnd(s) = round(s)

St(s) = stitch(es)

Ch(s) = chain(s)

Sl st = slip stitch

Sc = single crochet

Inc = sc increase: sc 2 in same st

Dec = sc invisible decrease

FLO = front loops

[…] = series of stitches to be repeated

(…) = number of stitches once rnd is completed

*… = amount of times […] needs to be repeated

img = image

Instructions for the dragonfly amigurumi

Crochet the body

Start with the blue yarn. The body is not filled with fiberfill. You can fill the broader parts of the body with yarn ends.

Don’t fasten off when changing colours. Just rejoin the yarn without pulling too hard and causing too much tension that distorts the shape of the body.

Rnd 1: Sc 6 into magic ring (6)

Rnd 2 and 3 (2 rnds): Sc in all 6 st (6)

Rnd 4: [inc in next st, sc in next 2 st] repeat 2 times (8)

Rnd 5: [inc in next st, sc in next 3 st] repeat 2 times (10)

Rnd 6: [dec, sc in next 3 st] repeat 2 times (8)

Rnd 7: [dec, sc in next 2 st] repeat 2 times (6)

Rnd 8: Sc in next 5 st, sc in next st changing to black (6)

Rnd 9: Sc in next 5 st, sc in next st changing to blue (6)

Rnd 10 to 12 (3 rnds): Sc in all 6 st (6)

Rnd 13: Sc in next st changing to black, sc in next 5 st (6) [img 1]

Rnd 14: Sc in next st changing to blue, sc in next 5 st (6) [img 2]

Rnd 15 to 17 (3 rnds): Sc in all 6 st (6)

Rnd 18: Sc in next st changing to black, sc in next 5 st (6)

Rnd 19: Sc in next st changing to blue, sc in next 5 st (6)

Rnd 20 and 21 (2 rnds): Sc in all 6 st (6)

Rnd 22: Sc in next st changing to black, sc in next 5 st (6)

Rnd 23: Sc in next st changing to blue, sc in next 5 st (6)

Rnd 24: Sc in all 6 st (6)

Rnd 25: Sc in next st, sc in next st changing to black, sc in next 4 st (6)

Rnd 26: Sc in all 6 st (6)

Rnd 27: Sc in next st, sc in next st changing to blue, sc in next 4 st (6)

Rnd 28: Sc in next st, sc in next st changing to black, sc in next 4 st (6)

Rnd 29 and 30 (2 rnds): Sc in all 6 st (6)

Rnd 31: Sc in next 2 st, sc in next st changing to blue, sc in next 3 st (6)

Rnd 32: [inc in next st, sc in next 2 st] repeat 2 times (8)

Rnd 33 and 34 (2 rnds): Sc in all 8 st (8)

Rnd 35: Sc in next 4 st, sc in next st changing to black, sc in next 3 st (8)

Rnd 36: [dec, sc in next 2 st] repeat 2 times (6)

Fasten off and close the round by inserting the yarn end in the FLO of all 6 st, using a
yarn needle. Then stitch through the center of the last round and weave in the yarn end.

Crochet the eyes in blue (make 2)

Rnd 1: Sc 6 into magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: [inc in next st, sc in next 2 st] repeat 2 times (8)

Rnd 3: [dec, sc in next 2 st] repeat 2 times (6)

Sl st in next st and fasten off, leaving a long enough yarn end for sewing.

Fill the eye with with the tail end.

Crochet the upper wings in white or light blue (make 2)

Rnd 1: Sc 6 into magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: [inc in next st, sc in next st] repeat 3 times (9)

Rnd 3 and 4: Sc in all 9 st (9)

Rnd 5: [inc in next st, sc in next 2 st] repeat 3 times (12)

Rnd 6 to 8 (3 rnds): Sc in all 12 st (12)

Rnd 9: [dec, sc in next 2 st] repeat 3 times (9)

Rnd 10 to 12 (3 rnds): Sc in all 9 st (9)

Rnd 13: Dec, sc in next 7 st (8)

Rnd 14: Sc in all 8 st (8)

Rnd 15: Dec, sc in next 6 st (7)

Rnd 16: Sc in all 7 st (7)

Rnd 17: Dec, sc in next 5 st (6)

Rnd 18: Sc in all 6 st (6)

Sl st in the next st. Fasten off, leaving a long enough yarn end for sewing.
Press the wings flat.

Crochet the lower wings in white or light blue (make 2)

Rnd 1: Sc 6 into magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: [inc in next st, sc in next st] repeat 3 times (9)

Rnd 3: Sc in all 9 st (9)

Rnd 4: [inc in next st, sc in next 2 st] repeat 3 times (12)

Rnd 5 to 7 (3 rnds): Sc in all 12 st (12)

Rnd 8: [dec, sc in next 2 st] repeat 3 times (9)

Rnd 9 to 11 (3 rnds): Sc in all 9 st (9)

Rnd 12: Dec, sc in next 7 st (8)

Rnd 13: Sc in all 8 st (8)

Rnd 14: Dec, sc in next 6 st (7)

Rnd 15: Sc in all 7 st (7)

Rnd 16: Dec, sc in next 5 st (6)

Rnd 17: Sc in all 6 st (6

Sl st in the next st. Fasten off, leaving a long enough yarn end for sewing.
Press the wings flat.

Assembly of the dragonfly amigurumi

Sew the eyes on

Pin one of the eyes sideways on round 2 to 3 of the body. There will be an eye on each side, so make sure that the stripes on the body look nice and neat from the top and that the color jogs are on the bottom side of the body. Thread the long yarn end of the eye on a yarn needle. [img 1]

Sew the eye on all around, alternating between small stitches through the body (as close to the eye as possible) [img 2] and stitches through the last round of the eye, from the outside inward. [img 3]

Once every sc stitch of the last round of the eye is sewn on the body, weave in the yarn end and cut it short.

Sew the other eye on the other side of the head (rnd 2 to 4 of the body). [img 4 and 5]

Sew the wings on the dragonfly amigurumi

Pin one of the lower wings sideways on round 7 and 8 of the body. (There should be about 1 blue round between the first black round and where the wing begins.)
Thread the long yarn end of the wing on a yarn needle. [img 1]

Sew the base of the wing on, stitching through both layers of the wing. Alternate between vertical, small stitches through the body (as close to the wing as possible) [img 2] and stitches through both layers of the wing. [img 3]

Finish with a stitch through the body [img 4], then weave in the yarn end and cut it short.

Then pin one of the upper wings on round 6 and 7 of the body. It should partly overlap with the base of the lower wing. The upper wings should lay on top when looking at the damselfly from the top. [img 5 and 6]

When sewing on the overlapping part of the wing, stitch through the bases of both wings together. Once the upper wing is firmly attached, weave in the yarn end. [img 7]

Sew the other set of wings on the other side of the body. Due to the nature of in the round crocheted stitches, the wings may naturally point into slightly different directions.
Pause once every couple of stitches when sewing on the left set of wings to make sure they are pointing in the desired direction. [img 8 and 9]

Embroider the eyes, mouth and marking on the back

When making embroideries on your amigurumi, I recommend using a pointy sewing or embroidery needle, so that you can stitch through the fibers of the yarn. This gives you much more control over where the stitches go, compares to stitching through in between crocheted stitches.

Embroider the eyes with the back stitch method, with two small stitches on each side and the mouth in a small V-shape in the center. I describe how to do this in detail below with help of the images.

Cut an approx. 30cm/12” long, black piece of embroidery floss and thread it on a large eyed sewing needle. Turn the damselfly on its back and insert the sewing needle in the first black stripe, stitching through to the center front of one on the eyes. [img 1]

The needle should exit the eye where the red dot is, roughly in between rnd 1 and 2 of the eye, facing forward. [img 2]

Make a small, approx. 1 sc wide stitch toward the center of the face, exiting at the same spot (marked with the red dot in img 2). [img 3]

Now repeat this same stitch to make it appear bolder. Only, this time stitch almost through to the center of rnd 1 of the body, slightly on one side where one corner of the mouth should go. [img 4]

Then make a diagonal downward stitch, roughly in between round 1 and 2 of the body. Stitch through to where the other corner of the mouth should go. [img 5]

Now insert the needle in the same spot as shown in img 5, this time stitching through to a forward facing spot in between rnd 1 and 2 of the other eye. [img 6]

Make a small, approx. 1 sc wide stitch toward the center of the face, exiting at the same spot as shown in img 6. [img 7]

Insert the needle in the same spot as shown in img 7, only this time stitch through to the top of the head, in between rnd 2 and 3 of the body. [img 8 to 10]
The face is now embroidered. [img 9]

Make 3 long, vertical stitches across rnd 3 to 6 of the body. It does not matter if you begin in the center or on one side, as long as the stitches are close to each other. [img 10 and 11]

When completing the third long, vertical stitch, let the needle exit on the bottom side of the body, somewhere on the first black stripe (near the other thread end). [img 12]

Now you can weave in both thread ends on the black stripe to secure the embroidery.

Embroider the markings on the wings

Embroider the markings on the wings with two small stitches through both layers of the wings.
I describe how to do this in detail below with help of the images.

Cut an approx. 20cm/8” long, black piece of embroidery floss and thread it on a large eyed sewing needle.

Starting with any of the wings, insert the needle in both layers of the wing, along the upper edge between rnd 2 and 3. It does not matter if you start on the top or bottom side of the wing. [img 1]

Then stitch back to the other side, inserting the needle in between rnd 3 and 4. [img 2]

Insert the needle close to the same spot as shown in img 1. [img 3]

Make the second stitches on both sides, using both thread ends. Insert the needle in between rnd 3 and 4 again, close to the previous stitch [img 4], stitching through to the bottom side of the wing, as far away as possible [img 5]

Now thread the other end on a sewing needle and insert the it in between rnd 3 and 4, close to the previous stitch, exiting on the bottom side of the wing, as far away as possible. [img 5 and 6]

Cut both thread ends short and give the wing a gentle squeeze, so that the thread ends disappear and stay hidden inside the wing. [img 7]

Repeat these steps with the other three wings.

Attach wired legs to the dragonfly amigurumi (optional)

Adding wired legs to the damselfly is completely optional. If this amigurumi is meant to be played
with by children, please don’t use any craft wire, as it can cause injuries.

Cut 2 x 7cm/2.75” long pieces and 1 x 5cm/2” long piece of craft wire for the legs.

Insert the shorter piece of wire in the bottom side of the body, in between rnd 3 and 4 with about 1.5 sc stitches space in between both wire ends. Center the piece of wire, so that both ends are equally long.

If you like, you can bend and complete the first pair of legs before inserting the other two pairs. If so, skip this paragraph for now.
If inserting all at once, insert one of the longer pieces of wire in between rnd 4 and 5 on the bottom side of the body with about 1.5 sc stitches space in between both ends.
Then insert the third piece of wire in between rnd 5 and 6 on the bottom side of the body with about 1.5 sc stitches space in between. [img 1]

Now bend all the wire ends downward. [img 2]

Then bend each of the wire ends almost 90 degrees forward, roughly at the center of each leg. [img 3]

Cut an approx 40cm/16” long piece of black yarn. Apply a bit of glue to one of the front
legs and wrap the yarn tightly around the wire, starting at the base and the middle of the
yarn piece. [img 4]

Once you reach the end of the leg, bend the last 3 to 5mm of craft wire, using flat pliers.
Press this wire end down firmly to help secure the black yarn end. [img 5]

Then cut the black yarn end short and apply an extra drop of glue to the end of the leg
to secure the yarn end further. [img 6]

Now thread the other yarn end on a yarn needle and insert it in the same spots you inserted the piece of wire in. Now you can use the other yarn end to repeat these steps with the other front leg. [img 7]

Then repeat it all with the other two sets of legs.

And that’s it! Your dragonfly is complete!

Thank you so much for visiting! And thank you for using my pattern! I hope you enjoyed it!

You can pin this dragonfly amigurumi pattern here for later.

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You are welcome to create products to sell on a small scale using this pattern. If you wish to do so, please refer back to my blog stellasyarnuniverse.com for the pattern.

Happy creating!