Raven Amigurumi Pattern

This is the free version of my raven amigurumi pattern.

Ragnar the Raven enjoys hopping around in the enchanted forest and likes startling squirrels with his loud ‘caws’.

Sometimes he delivers messages for his friend Sophia the Sorceress.

I hope you will enjoy crocheting him as much as I did.

A PDF version of this pattern can be purchased for a small fee on Etsy and Ravelry. There is also an interactive version of the pattern on Ribblr.

If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to email me at stellasyarnuniverse@outlook.com.

Terminology

This pattern is written in American terminology.

Size

Ragnar is approx. 6.5 cm /2.5 inches short from head to tail, if using the indicated hook and yarn. If you would like him to be larger or smaller, you can use a different yarn weight and adjust the hook size accordingly.

Construction

Ragnar’s body is crocheted in one piece from top to bottom. The beak, wings and part of the legs are sewn on and the tail is crocheted on. The feet are bent with wire, which works best with small, flat pliers.

Techniques

For this pattern, you will need techniques like the magic ring, invisible sc decreases, and invisible finishes. Whenever you need one of these techniques in the pattern, I refer to the page where you can find the photo tutorial.

Use of this pattern

You may sell finished products you create using this pattern if you kindly refer to stellasyarnuniverse.com for the pattern. You may not reproduce and sell this pattern.

Tips and tricks

1. You crochet in seamless spirals.

2. Crochet as tightly as you comfortably can. This will ensure your amigurumi will have the right scale and no filling will show through any gaps. If you tend to crochet quite loosely try using a smaller-sized hook.

3. Because this amigurumi is very small and the feet are made with wire, I don’t recommend making it as a toy for children. It can be made appropriate for older children by replacing the wire with pipe cleaner.

4. Also, if you are making this amigurumi as a toy for a child, please don’t use safety eyes. You can instead embroider the eyes with yarn or embroidery floss. Although they are called “safety eyes” they can be removed and swallowed by young children.

5. Have fun! In my opinion, crocheting shouldn’t be just about the result but mainly about enjoying the process.

Now make your favorite beverage, grab your yarn and hook, sit back in your most comfy chair, and happy crocheting!

Materials and tools

Cotton yarn in DK / light worsted weight in black and gray [I used Rico Creative Ricorumi DK in Black (060) and Mouse Grey (059)]

2.5mm crochet hook / Size B-1 or C-2, depending on how tightly you crochet

2mm hook for crocheting the beak

4.5 or 5mm safety eyes

Fiberfill

Stitch marker

Yarn needle

Scissors

Craft wire (at least 1mm in diameter)

Flat pliers (for jewelry making)

Instructions

Crochet the head and body in black

I am using gray instead of black and beige instead of gray in the step-by-step images.

Learn how to make a magic ring.

Learn how to make an invisible decrease in sc.

Rnd 1: Start with 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: Inc in all 6 st (12)

Rnd 3: [sc in next st, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 4 and 5 (2 rounds): Sc in all 18 st (18)

If you want to use 5mm or larger safety eyes, you can crochet two openings for them in round 6. If you want to use smaller or a different type of eyes or embroider the eyes instead, you can skip this step and simply crochet in all 18 stitches in rounds 6 and 7.

Rnd 6: Sc in next 7 st, ch 1, sk 1, sc in next 3 st, ch 1, sk 1, sc in next 6 st (18)

Rnd 7: Sc in next 7 st, sc in ch-space, sc in next 3 st, sc in ch-space, sc in next 6 st (18)

Rnd 8: [sc in next 2 st, inc in next st] repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 9 and 10 (2 rounds): Sc in all 24 st (24)

In the next round, you will create an opening out of which you will later crochet the tail.

Rnd 11: Ch 8, sk next 4 st [img 1], [sc in next 2 st, dec] repeat 5 times (23) [img 2]

Secure your last stitch with a stitch marker.

If you crocheted openings for the safety eyes place the safety eyes in the designated gaps. Secure them. [see result in img 5]

The 8 chains mark the center back of the raven so if you haven’t crocheted openings make sure that you place the eyes on the opposite side in order for them to face forward. [img 3]

If you haven’t created any openings place the safety eyes in between rounds 4 and 5 or in between rounds 5 and 6, depending on your preference. Leave approx. 4 st space in between the eyes. [img 4]

Rnd 12: Sc in BLO of all 8 ch, [sc in next st, dec] repeat 5 times (18)

Fill the body with fiberfill.

Rnd 13: [sc in next st, dec] repeat 6 times (12)

Rnd 14: Dec 6 times (6)

Fasten off and close the round.

Crochet the tail in black

Join the black yarn at the side of rnd 11, to the right of the 8 chains that you made for the opening. [img 1 and 2]

Rnd 1 (see detailed breakdown of this round below): Sc 14 st out of the opening (14)

Sc in the other side of the 8 chains of rnd 11 of the body [img 3],

sc 1 out of the other side of rnd 11 [img 4 and 5],

sc in the 4 skipped stitches of rnd 11 [img 6],

sc 1 out of the side of rnd 11 where you first joined the yarn [img 7] (14)

Rnd 2: Sc in all 14 st (14)

Rnd 3: [sc in next 5 st, dec] repeat 2 times (12)

Rnd 4: Sc in all 12 st (12)

Fill the tail with fiberfill.

Rnd 5: [sc in next 2 st, dec] repeat 3 times (9)

Rnd 6: Sc in all 9 st (9)

Rnd 7: [sc in next st, dec] repeat 3 times (6)

Rnd 8: Sc in all 6 st (6)

Rnd 9: Dec 3 times (3)

Fasten off and close the round. [img 8]

Crochet the beak in gray with a 2mm hook

Ch 6, leaving a long yarn end for sewing.

Rnd 1: Close the chains to a round and sc in all 6 ch (6) [img 1 and 2]

Rnd 2: [sc in next st, dec] repeat 2 times (4)

Fasten off and close the round.

Thread the long yarn end through the next chain to even out the base of the beak. [img 3 and 4]

Sew the beak on

Sew the beak centered between the eyes, using the long yarn end. [img 1 and 2]

Bring the yarn ends through to the same spot in between stitches. Tie them together and cut them short. [img 3]

Pull the knot and yarn ends inside the amigurumi, using a crochet hook. [img 4]

Crochet the wings in black

The wings are crocheted in rows.

Crochet the left wing

Ch 3, leaving a long yarn end for sewing.

R 1: Sc in next 2 ch (from 2nd from hook), ch 1, turn (2)

R 2: Inc in both st, ch 1, turn (4)

R 3 to 5 (3 rs): Sc in all 4 st, ch 1, turn (4)

R 6: Sc in next 2 st, sk next st, sc in next st, ch 1, turn (3)

R 7: Sk first st, sc in next 2 st, ch 1, turn (2)

R 8 and 9 (2 rs): Sc in both st, ch 1, turn (2)

R 10: Sk first st, sc in next st, ch 1, turn (1)

R 11: Sc in only st (1)

Now crochet all around the wing.

Sc 10 in the side between the rows all the way to the top [img 1 and 2],

sc 2 in the other side of the base chains you began with [img 3 and 4],

sc 10 in the other side in between rows. [img 5 and 6] (22)

Fasten off. Make an invisible finish in which you cheat in an extra ‘fake’ stitch:

Insert the needle in the first sc you made in this round. [img 7]

Then insert the needle in the BLO of the last sc you made. [img 8]

Weave in the yarn end.

Crochet the right wing

Ch 3, leaving a long yarn end for sewing.

R 1: Sc in next 2 ch (from 2nd from hook), ch 1, turn (2)

R 2: Inc in both st, ch 1, turn (4)

R 3 to 5 (3 rs): Sc in all 4 st, ch 1, turn (4)

R 6: Sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 2 st, ch 1, turn (3)

R 7: Sc in next st, sk next st, sc in next st, ch 1, turn (2)

R 8 and 9 (2 rs): Sc in both st, ch 1, turn (2)

R 10: Sk first st, sc in next st, ch 1, turn (1)

R 11: Sc in only st (1)

Now crochet all around the wing as you did with the left wing.

Sc 10 in the side between the rows all the way to the top,

sc 2 in the other side of the base chains you began with,

sc 10 in the other side in between rows. (22)

Fasten off. Make an invisible finish. Weave in the yarn end.

Crochet the base of the legs in black (make 2)

Ch 6

Rnd 1: Close the chains to a round and sc in all 6 ch (6) [img 1]

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn end for sewing. Make an invisible finish in which you cheat in an extra ‘fake’ stitch.

Insert the needle in the first sc you made. [img 2]

Then insert the needle in the BLO of the last sc you made. [img 3]

Thread the other yarn end through the next chain [img 4] and bring it through to the other side where the other yarn end is. [img 5]

See the result in img 6.

Sew on the base of the legs and the wings

Pin the bases of the legs to the left and right side of the last round of the body. [img 1]

Sew them on all around, using the long yarn ends. Weave in the other yarn ends. [img 2]

Pin the wings on each side of the body, facing diagonally down and backward.

The base of the legs should still be visible from the side and the top part of the wings shouldn’t be higher than the lower part of the beak.

Sew on the upper part of the wings (from pin to pin). [img 3]

Shape the legs and feet with craft wire (make 2)

Cut an approx. 20cm / 8” long piece of 1mm thick craft wire.

Fold the wire 180 degrees so that you have one 4cm/1.6“ short and one 16cm/6.4”

long side. Then fold the longer end 90 degrees up at 2.5cm/1“ length. [img 1]

This double-sided part of the wire will become the leg.

Now shape the first toe by bending the long wire end backward at 1cm / 0.8”

length, measured from the last bend. [img 2]

From here, bend the wire forward again. [img 3]

Bend the wire backward again at 1cm / 0.8” length, measured from the last bend. [img 4]

Bend the wire forward again. [img 5]

Bend the wire backward again at 1cm/0.4” from the last bend. Now you formed three toes. [img 6]

Now bend both wire ends straight backward. They should be an extension of the middle toe. [img 7]

Bend the short wire end forward at the halfway point (at about 0.75cm/0.3”).

This forms the backward-facing toe. [img 8]

Wrap the longer wire end twice around the base of the backward-facing toe. [img 9]

Then wrap it tightly up the leg. It will be enough to cover about half the leg. [img 10]

Slightly bend the tips of the toes downward. [img 11]

Repeat all these steps to make the second leg. [img 12]

Insert the legs in the bases of the legs. You can poke through with the back of a yarn needle first to create space in between the fiberfill. [img 13]

Your raven is now complete!

I hope you enjoyed crocheting him as much as I did.

I would love to see your ladybugs! Share your creation on Instagram or Facebook with the hashtag #stellasyarnuniverse and tag me with @stellasyarnuniverse! You will automatically be entered in my monthly giveaway of a paid pattern of your choice from my shop! Winners are announced on my Instagram page @stellasyarnuniverse at the beginning of every month!

If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to email me at stellasyarnuniverse@outlook.com.

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Happy creating!