Tiger Amigurumi Pattern

This is my Tiger Amigurumi pattern. It’s a great project for intermediate and practised crocheters, who don’t shy away from embroidery! 

If using the indicated hook and yarn, the tiger will be approx. 2”/5cm tall and 3”/7.5cm long (excluding the tail)

You can find the free written pattern in US terms below. Hope you’ll enjoy it!

And there is also an ad-free downloadable pdf version of the tiger amigurumi available to purchase on Etsy for a small fee. (it includes detailed images of the embroidery great if you want to work on it offline)

You can also get it on Ravelry.

Or get the Ribblr version.

I would love to see your little amigurumi tiger! Share your creation on Instagram and tag me @stellasyarnuniverse for the monthly chance to win a pdf pattern of your choice from my Etsy shop! Winners are announced on my Instagram page @stellasyarnuniverse every 1st of the month!

This pattern is written in American crochet terms. You can find a conversion chart below.

Materials and tools you need to make the tiger amigurumi

Cotton yarn in 4-Ply / Fingering or DK / light worsted weight in orange and white [I used Scheepjes Catona in Sweet Orange (411) and Bridal White (105)]

1 skein of black embroidery thread (about 2g / 0.08oz)

2.5mm hook/B-1 or C-2 

5mm safety eyes 

Yarn needle (preferably with a bent tip)

Large-eyed sewing needle

Stitch marker 

Sewing pins 

Fiberfill

Small flat pliers (optional)

Scissors

Abbreviations

R = row

Rnd = round

St(s) = stitch(es)

Ch = chain

Sc = single crochet

Hdc = half double crochet

Dc = double crochet

Inc = single crochet 2 in same st

Dec = invisible decrease: Insert hook in front loops of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through 2 remaining loops

BLO = back loops

[…] = series of stitches to be repeated

*… = times the series of stitches is to be repeated

(…) = stitch count once round is complete

Instructions for the tiger amigurumi

The tapestry technique (carrying the yarn color that is currently not in use through the stitches) is explained in the pattern when it is first used.

If you find that you are uncomfortable with using the tapestry technique, you could instead, do regular color changes and leave the yarn ends hanging inside the amigurumi (intarsia technique).

Crochet the forelegs in orange (make 2)

Make a magic ring in orange, leaving
a 20cm/8” long tail end.

Rnd 1: Sc 10 in magic ring (10)

Leave the yarn tail outside of your work.

Rnd 2: In BLO: Sc 1, dec 4, sc 1 (6)

Rnd 3 and 4 (2 rnds): Sc 6 (6)

Rnd 5: [sc 2, inc 1]*2 (8)

Rnd 6: Sc 8 (8)

Sl st in next st and fasten off.

Crochet the hind legs in orange (make 2)

Make a magic ring in orange, leaving
a 20cm/8” long tail end.

Rnd 1: Sc 10 in magic ring (10)

Leave the yarn tail outside of your work.

Rnd 2: In BLO: Sc 1, dec 4, sc 1 (6)

Rnd 3 and 4 (2 rnds): Sc 6 (6)

Rnd 5: [sc 2, inc 1]*2 (8)

Rnd 6: Sc 8 (8)

Rnd 7: [sc 3, inc 1]*2 (10)

Sl st in next st and fasten off.

Shape the paws (repeat 4 times)

Shape the paw, using the long yarn tail outside of the leg. Thread it on a yarn needle and insert it in the center of the magic ring, exiting through the front of the paw (opposite side of where the yarn tail comes out). [img 1]

Then stitch through the magic ring center again, exiting close to the first stitch you made, on the left side of it. [img 2] 

Then stitch through the magic ring center again, exiting close to the first stitch you made, on the right side of it. [img 3]

Now stitch through the magic ring center once again, this time exiting at the back of the leg, where you can weave in the yarn end. The paw should now be slightly flattened. [img 4]

Crochet the belly

Ch 8 in white

Rnd 1: Sc 6 (starting in 2nd ch), sc 4 in last ch, sc in other side of 5 chs, sc 3 in last ch, changing color to orange in the last one (18)

Rnd 2: Sc 10 around hind leg, sc 1 changing to white, sc 5, sc 1 changing to orange, around foreleg: [sc 7, sc 1 changing to white], sc 1, sc 1 changing to orange, around foreleg: [sc 7, sc 1 changing to white], sc 5, sc 1 changing to orange, sc 1, sc 10 around hind leg, sc 2 (54)

In rnd 2 you will crochet the legs on and change colors using the tapestry technique. I guide you through every step of this round with the help of step-by-step images.

The beginning of the round marks the back of the body. Therefore, the paws should all face in the opposite direction when they are crocheted on. [img 1]

Start single crocheting in one of the hind legs at the center of the inner leg. [img 2]

This will ensure that the paw faces forward. Crochet in all 10 sts of the hind leg.

Sc in the next st of the body, changing to white. Insert hook [img 3], pick up orange yarn and pull through stitch, then pick up white yarn [img 4] and pull through both orange loops on hook [img 5]. 

From here you will use the tapestry technique to carry the orange yarn through the white stitches. I like to hold both yarn colors with my index finger, with the color I am using on top.

You could also leave the color that is to be carried through the stitches hanging loose if you find that easier.

Sc in next 5 sts of the belly, pulling the white yarn through behind the orange yarn [img 6], pulling it through the stitch, and picking the white yarn up from over the orange yarn [img 7]. Pull the yarn through both loops on the hook. [img 8]

Give the yarn you carry through a gentle pull once in a while to ensure it doesn’t show through in between stitches. [img 9]

Sc in next st, changing to orange. Here you can leave the white yarn hanging loose until you change colors again.

Join the first foreleg in a stitch at the back of the leg, that is slightly inward-facing. [img 10]

Sc in the next 7 sts of the foreleg, then change color to white in the 8th sc of the foreleg.

Here you can leave the orange yarn hanging loose until you change colors again.

Sc in next st of the belly/chest, sc in next st, changing to orange.

Join the second foreleg in a stitch at the back of the leg, that is slightly inward-facing. [img 11]

Sc in the next 7 sts of the foreleg, then change color to white in the 8th sc of the foreleg.

Now you will carry the orange yarn through the white stitches and the white yarn goes on top if you hold both yarns with your index finger. Or drop the orange yarn and crochet around it with the white yarn.

Sc in next 5 sts of the belly, sc in next st changing to orange, sc in next st.

Then start crocheting in the second hind leg in the stitch at the center of the inner leg. [img 12] You can leave the white yarn hanging, until the next color change.

Crochet in all 10 sts of the second hind leg, sc in 2 remaining sts (54)

Use some of the orange yarn ends to close the gaps between legs and belly with two stitches each. [img 13 and 14]

This is how the tiger looks from below. [img 15] 

Rnd 3: Dec, sc 7, dec changing to white, sc 4, sc 1 changing to orange, dec, sc 4, sc 1 changing to white, sc 1, dec 2, sc 1 changing to orange, sc 5, dec changing to white, sc 4, sc 1 changing to orange, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 2 (46)

Rnd 4: Sc 8, sc 1 changing to white, sc 4, sc 1 changing to orange, sc 4, sc 1 changing to white, sc 5, sc 1 changing to orange, sc 4, sc 1 changing to white, sc 4, sc 1 changing to orange, sc 11 (46)

Rnd 5: Sc 19, ch 10, sk 6, sc 21 (50) [img 1]

Continue with the back:

Rnd 6: Sc 19, sc in BLO of 10 ch, sc 21 (50) [img 2 and 3]

Rnd 7: Sc 16, dec 8, sc 18 (42)

Rnd 8: [sc 5, dec]*6 (36)

Rnd 9: Sc 2, dec, [sc 4, dec]*5, sc 2 (30)

Rnd 10: [sc 3, dec]*6 (24)

Rnd 11: Sc 1, dec, [sc 2, dec]*5, sc 1 (18)

Fill with fiberfill.

Rnd 12: [sc 1, dec]*6 (12)

Rnd 13: Dec 6 (6)

Fasten off and close the round.

Crochet the neck

Join the white yarn in the first white stitch of the neck opening. [img 4 and 5]

Once you joined the orange yarn, carry the white yarn through the orange stitches and vice versa.

Rnd 1: Sc 4, sc 1 changing to orange [img 6], sc 9 out of other side of ch sts [img 7], sc 1 out of last ch st changing to white, sc 1 in first white stitch in which you first joined yarn (16)

Rnd 2: Sc 4, sc 1 changing to orange, sc 9, sc 1 changing to white, sc 1 (16)

Sl st in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing in both colors. [img 8]

Crochet the head

Rnd 1: Sc 6 in magic ring in white (6)

Rnd 2: Inc 2, inc 1 changing to orange in 2nd sc, inc 2, inc 1 changing to white in 2nd sc (12)

Rnd 3: Sc 5, sc 1 changing to orange, sc 5, sc 1 changing to white (12)

Rnd 4: [inc 1, sc 1]*2, inc 1, sc 1 changing to orange, [inc 1, sc 1]*2, inc 1, sc 1 changing to white (18)

Rnd 5: [inc 1, sc 2]*3, inc 1 changing to orange in 2nd sc, [sc 2, inc 1]*2, sc 1, sc 1 changing to white (24)

Rnd 6: Sc 14, sc 1 changing to orange, sc 8, sc 1 changing to white (24)

Rnd 7: Sc 14, sc 1 changing to orange, sc 9 (24)

Secure the last stitch with a stitch marker.

Embroider the face

Insert the safety eyes between rounds 5 and 6 with approx. 4 stitches in space in between. [img 1] Wait to secure them.

Embroider the outline of the eyes, using an approx. 60cm/24” long piece of black embroidery floss and a large-eyed sewing needle.

When embroidering, stitch through the fibers, not in between stitches. This way you have more control over the position of the stitch because the thread does not have room to move around.

Insert the needle from the inside out, close to one of the eyes, where you want the inner corner of the eye to go. Then insert the needle where you want the outer corner of the eye to go, this time at about half a sc stitch distance from the eye. This creates the lower eye line. [img 2]

Insert the needle from the inside out, right next to the outer corner of the eye, slightly more toward the side of the face. [img 3]

Now, look at the part of the eye that doesn’t have an eye line yet. Find the center point of that part and insert the needle there. [img 4] This creates part of the upper eye line.

Then insert the needle (from the inside out) about half a sc stitch length underneath the inner corner of the eye. [img 5]

Now insert the needle at the center point of the upper eye line again. [img 6]

From here insert the needle (from the inside out) where you want the inner corner of the other eye to go. [img 7] Repeat all the previous steps to create the outline of the other eye.

Once the other eye line is complete insert the needle (from the inside out) near the center of the magic ring (not exactly in the center, make sure to catch some fibers to have more control over the position of the stitch). [img 8]

Next, insert the needle roughly in between rounds 1 and 2, in direction of one of the eyes. [img 9]

Insert the needle (from the inside out) at the same center spot again and make a symmetrical stitch in direction of the other eye. [img 10 and 11]

Now you can fill this v-shape that you embroidered by repeatedly stitching the same spot in the center through to a spot right next to the previous stitch you made. [img 12 to 14]

To complete the nose, insert the needle (from the inside out) at one of the upper corners of the nose and then in the other upper corner of the nose to create a neat upper side of the triangle. [img 15 and 16]

From here, start embroidering the mouth by inserting the needle (from the inside out) in the lower corner of the nose. [img 17]

Then insert the needle approx. half a sc stitch length below the lower corner of the nose. [img 18]

Now make an approx. 2 sc st long stitch to the left (from the inside out), more or less between rounds 1 and 2. [img 19]

Stitch through the center spot of the mouth again and make an equally long, symmetrical stitch on the right side. [img 20 and 21]

Now insert the needle in the center spot of the mouth once again and bring the thread to the inside of the head. [img 22]

Tie the thread ends together inside the head. [img 23]

Continue crocheting as follows:

Rnd 8: Sc 1 changing to white, sc 3, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 1, sc 1 changing to orange, sc 10 (22)

Rnd 9: Sc 1 changing to white, sc 2, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 1, sc 1 changing to orange, sc 1, dec, sc 5, dec (18)

Start filling the head.

Rnd 10: Sc 1 changing to white, dec, [sc 1, dec]*2, sc 1 changing to orange, dec, [sc 1, dec]*2 (12)

Fill the head with more fiberfill, if necessary.

Rnd 11: Dec 6 times (6)

Fasten off and close the round.

Close the round and weave in the yarn end.

Crochet the ears in orange (make 2)

Ch 4

Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch

Fasten off, leaving a long enough yarn end for sewing the ears on.

Crochet the tail

Ch 20

R 1: Sc 19 (start in 2nd ch), ch 1, turn (19)

R 2 and 3 (2 rows): Sc 19, ch 1, turn (19)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the tail together by stitching it together with the other side of each base chain and the corresponding sc stitch of R 3. [img 1 to 2]

Assembly

Pin the ears in place between rounds 8 and 9 of the head with approx. 3 stitches in space in between and sew them on. [img 3 to 6]

Generously fill the neck with fiberfill. 

Sew the head on the neck opening with the white parts aligning. [img 7 and 8]

Use the white yarn end to sew the white and the orange yarn end to sew the orange part of the head on the corresponding part of the neck. Then use the remaining orange yarn end to close the small gaps between the body and neck. [img 9]

Weave in the yarn ends and cut them short. [img 10]

Sew the tail on the body, centered on the back. [img 11 and 12]

Weave in the yarn ends and cut them short.

Embroider the stripes

When embroidering the stripes it is not necessary to be as precise as when embroidering the eyes, nose, and mouth. Each tiger’s coat is unique, so don’t worry about placing the stitches in the exact way that I did. You can use this part of my video tutorial as guidance or get the pdf pattern or Ribblr pattern to see all the step-by-step images of embroidering the stripes.

Congratulations! 

Your little tiger is now complete! 

Thank you so much for visiting! And thank you for using my pattern! I hope you enjoyed it!

You can pin this tiger amigurumi pattern here for later.

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive some compensation if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. It doesn’t cost you anything if you click and purchase through those links, however, it helps me to maintain this site and allows me to keep creating free patterns for you. Thank you for being so supportive!

You are welcome to create products to sell on a small scale using this pattern. If you wish to do so, please refer back to my blog stellasyarnuniverse.com for the pattern.

Happy creating!

Stella xx